partexpat

I have encountered reports of chains becoming misaligned by that extent. Occasionally, the engine was spun counterclockwise when the chain was slack. Upon changing my chain, the shop failed to replace the tensioner due to ordering the incorrect part. The chain was noticeably slack. I added a new tensioner that resolved the issue. The chain remains taut, making manual deflection difficult.

I am around 6 degrees from TDC. The chain is comparatively fresh and taut. Your guides, as well as mine, seem satisfactory. If your chain was changed at any time (indicated by a detachable link), it is conceivable that it was put one tooth misaligned. One tooth measures 20 degrees. If it were rectified, you would be near TDC. Offset Woodruff keys for the sprockets allow for an adjustment range of 4 to 10 degrees (FSM 05-215/4). There are individuals here who possess more expertise than I do on this issue (which is not difficult to get!). It is hoped that they will provide their input.

Your measurements seem to be accurate. Aligned cam markings and thereafter verified the location of the pointer at the balancer. 18 degrees is considerable! Did you see my recent discussion on the same topic? This article illustrates the location of my automobile with the same approach.

Upon the replacement of my chain at around 140,000 miles, it exhibited biting marks. I recall it being around 10 degrees off at that time. I am uncertain if it was the first or second alteration. If Sbavo's chain is taut, do you believe it is becoming loose? 18 degrees is considerable! Perhaps the replacement was not put correctly?

https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-sl-discussion-forum/105523-trunk-lock-problem.html

Discovered this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKowXOGfOX0

A thread exists here detailing the precise location for drilling a hole to access the latch mechanism, with dimensions and other specifications. Continuing the search. Rowdie participated.

Greetings. The issue is likely attributable to your fuel pump relay. Merely due to its prevalence as an age-related failing. You may use the search option to see conversations. Refrain from discarding your old unit; having it resoldered may be a viable solution.

A fluid flush, along by the replacement of o-rings in the valve blocks, will likely resolve the suspension issue. Regarding the transmission, I would wager on a new conductor plate accompanied by fresh transmission fluid, however it may enough to recalibrate the transmission shift patterns. Will you repair the automobile alone or will you consult a mechanic?

The "flywheel" pin inserted into the reluctor wheel in lieu of the Crankshaft Position Sensor is not the "lock". The component it connects to is too delicate to endure the strain of unfastening and refastening the crank nose pulley, even if the pin and its mounting could withstand such stress, which they should not be subjected to. It is the accurate locator. The serrated plate that substitutes the starter connects with the robust driving teeth designed for engine ignition. That is the "lock." It has considerable strength, however lacks precision. Failure to orient the locator pin initially may result in improper clamping.

Multiple instances in "electronic logic". The shifter is neither in 'Park' nor 'Neutral,' which is the most apparent issue. However, they inhibit all activation of the starting circuit, not only the 'engagement' solenoid. In other words, it does not rotate, either.

Did the engagement solenoid and mechanism ("Bendix" patent) function off-engine? It seems to be a negation. Could anything have been damaged when the chain failure caused the motor to explode? If you have not addressed "all of the above," the defective starter has likely benefited you by preventing more harm.

indicated the section where you: EITHER: Conducted a comprehensive examination of each cylinder using a high-quality endoscope. OTHERWISE Assumed the standard procedure, removed the cylinder heads, inspected for bent or fractured valves, and performed the necessary substantial repairs if any damage was identified. New valves, guides, seals, and maybe pistons and rods, along with other minor components, may need honing or over-boring of any damaged cylinder bore liners. Overhead valve engines classified as "interference" will incur damage when the valve train and crankshaft are not consistently synchronized. Whether powered by combustion, a starting motor, or human exertion, "interference" precisely denotes its intended meaning. Even minimally bent valves fail to seal.

While you or your technician are engaged in this task, it is advisable to replace the cam oiler tube retainers, since it is a cost-effective precaution and a straightforward procedure. Procure two sets, one for each side. My vehicle was in quite decent condition even after 120,000 miles, but it was a logical decision. Best of luck

The sound is indeed unpleasant; it is a much lengthier rattling compared to my first experience. I hope the repair proceeds well. What is the mileage of the vehicle?

I endorse the OEM Euro Black Optic. It resembles the original grill, although has a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. A discussion thread exists about the matter.

Removing the door panel and disconnecting the wires will cause the windows to descend, providing clearance from the roof, similar to the action of entering and exiting the vehicle; thus, avoid doing this task outside on a wet day.

Examine eBay; they provide door switches and whole door cards at far lower prices, which are also simple to change independently. Numerous YouTube videos are available. Crucially, ensure the removal of the bolt located beneath the plastic SRS emblem prior to detaching the door panel; failure to do so may result in its breakage (albeit this is not the most detrimental outcome). I trust this information is beneficial.

Belts are inexpensive. Sever it.

I am unaware of the methods used by individuals to locate archived discussions. One aspect of this site that I find appealing is the ability to see the long-term performance of the autos. I am unaware of which specific O2 sensor was changed, but I do own the papers in my sophisticated folder with the service data. I will be returning to my place of residence by air over the next weekend and will thereafter verify and provide a report. I am also curious whether this problem is caused by poor gasoline quality. It is likely that the 93 octane fuel is seldom bought in many of the remote areas I visit. I refueled my vehicle today at an upscale location (not as upscale as Applebee's, but they did have a McDonald's), and now the code has disappeared. Hopefully this code does not return.

Additionally, may the occurrence of high temperatures be related to this situation? This week, the vehicle is experiencing scorching temperatures, with the maximum recorded temperature reaching 106 degrees. The code malfunctioned after I cleaned the vehicle at a self-service car wash facility.

That is an excellent inquiry. Does anybody have information on a facility in Memphis or Nashville that offers carbon cleaning services? The automobile has been parked here for a duration of one to two months, while I often go to and from a small, remote airport on a weekly basis. I could park the vehicle in one of those cities for a weekend to reduce carbon emissions.

I am astonished that fidelity does not provide coverage for that. It seems to me that this is a matter of warranty, unless they consider cats to be consumable items, similar to brakes or oil.

Fidelity has a strong affection for me. I plan to sell my shares of fidelity stock before purchasing my next warranty from them.

I am now located in a remote area of America, many hours away from an Audi dealership. My vehicle has encountered an issue with code P0421, indicating that the effectiveness of catalytic converter 1 in bank 1 is below the required level. What is the meaning of this? Is it feasible for me to travel a distance of 700 miles with this vehicle in order to reach my local Audi dealership? If not, may I drive 150 miles to an Audi dealer to get it inspected, or is it necessary to have it towed?