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The engine thermostat specification for your vehicle is 87 degrees Celsius. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) working range is 80 to 100 degrees Celsius, indicating that your vehicle's ECT measurement is within specifications. 71 degrees Celsius falls outside the acceptable limit and should not be used.

Replace the thermostat, if necessary. Verify the functionality of the viscous fan.

I reside in Florida, and the auxiliary fans seldom activate, mostly for the temperature control condenser, which is tied to refrigerant pressure. Ensure you get the auxiliary fan unit for 1998 and after, since the connections are inverted relative to earlier model years. Altering the polarity by severing and reconnecting the fan's wire is possible, although it is preferable to avoid this action. Connecting a 1997 fan to a 1998 W210 will direct the airflow towards the front grille instead of the condenser, unless modified.

I am unfamiliar with Romania, however you may get one on eBay or a similar platform if you locate an authentic used item. The compatibility of the fan control module for the W208 with the temperature control unit, which regulates the fan unit for the 1998 models in the USA, is uncertain. The non-USA W208 may have a different configuration.

Acquire a fan unit from a W210. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-Benz/17-WATER-Auxiliary_Cooling_Fan_Belt_Replacement/17-WATER-Auxiliary_Cooling_Fan_Belt_Replacement.htm

If the component numbers are same, you should be able to proceed. What issue is there with the auxiliary fan in your vehicle? What evidence indicates that it is the auxiliary fan? Only one motor is included in the auxiliary fan assembly; the other is passive and rotates via a belt mechanism connected to the main motor. Consider relocating the motor from the donor vehicle to your automobile and replacing the belt simultaneously.

As you are now inactive, please get all necessary components for the reconstruction of the rear end, except subframe bushings and springs. I own new shocks as well. Require half shafts and all rear table bushings, likely including bearings. I will be there on the day your cast is removed.

Indeed, after everything you have achieved in the last three years. It is always something foolish, is it not?

Inspect the shifter rod linkage bushings located underneath the vehicle on the left side of the transmission.

It does not produce the audible beep upon key insertion nor establish a magnetic connection. The key is inserted, rotated, and the engine ignites as customary.

Greetings, everyone, I trust that all members of the forum are in good health. Today, I encountered an unusual circumstance that some of you may be able to elucidate. I secured my S320CDI at a parking facility and locked the vehicle remotely as per customary protocol. The vehicle locked as normal; but, with a brief peek back, I saw that all indicators were flashing incessantly and the inside lights were on. No warning sound was heard. While I was in town, I considered the most economical option: replacing the batteries in the remote. I executed the action, but there was no alteration. The vehicle starts and operates normally; but, I have observed that the ignition barrel no longer recognizes the key as it did before. I now have it connected to a trickle charger, unsecured, in my secured garage to prevent battery depletion. Your insights would, as usual, be much appreciated.

The fractured dipstick may remain in the gearbox pan indefinitely. The transmission oil filter is located inside that pan, preventing that component from exiting the pan. During your next oil change, they might remove the transmission pan to service it, or you may want to wait until the scheduled transmission fluid change. Although it may seem frightening, there is no need for concern. A suitable transmission dipstick is available on eBay for $40.

Even with the absence of the left front brake sensor, it should not trigger the brake warning light. Unless there is uniform wear on both the left and right sides, a warning will not be triggered if just the left front brake exhibits early wear, suggesting potential issues with the caliper, pads, or rotor. Kindly check the brake sensors and their connections for any dirt or metal debris.

This is not a brake pad wear problem, since the braking sensor would contact the rotor, causing a short circuit in the two little wires, which would activate the brake warning light when the brake pads are worn. If the issue pertains to the Parking Brake switch, the dashboard display will illuminate red as the vehicle begins to move. Consider inspecting the brake sensors and connections for metal filings that may induce a short circuit. The vehicle's computer identifies the source of the malfunction but is unable to communicate this via a solitary Brake warning light. A Safety Data Sheet (SDS) may analyze the issue and identify its source.

Have you replaced all three brake sensors? Two sensors are positioned at the front left and front right, while one sensor is located in the back.

It is possible that the steering angle sensor is malfunctioning, particularly if the ESP light is intermittently visible and the steering wheel is abruptly misaligned, resulting in the vehicle deviating to the right. Nevertheless, it is important to also take into account less apparent causes, such as a miscalibrated steering rack or a malfunction in the suspension components. The vehicle's alignment or the sensor's calibration may have been impacted by the recent tire issue, which could have exacerbated an underlying issue. It is also advisable to inspect the tie rods and control arms for any signs of motion, as this could be a contributing factor to the handling issues. I would suggest conducting a comprehensive survey of your vehicle's systems to identify the precise issue. The youcanic full system scanner is the optimal choice for this task, as it is capable of reading all control modules, including those associated with the steering and stability control systems, thereby offering a thorough analysis. This instrument has become my preferred choice due to its ability to identify issues that may be overlooked by simpler devices, such as the BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII scanner, which is limited to reading powertrain codes. Prior to commencing your journey, verify that the tire pressures are uniform and conduct a brief visual examination of the suspension components. Have you reviewed any recent fault codes associated with the steering or ESP systems that may have gone unnoticed?

I addressed a battery depletion issue. Not during the act of running. Several modules are malfunctioning, along with overnight items. It took me many months to comprehend. Had to examine the whole CAM and wiring system to understand it. Attempting to generate ideas. Grounding concerns need consideration. The power is not transferring from the functional alternator to the operational battery.

What occurs when you open the hood and activate the engine with a newly charged battery? Are the belts operational and functioning normally? Suddenly ceases functioning without any prior indications when operating a vehicle? Perhaps something was not connected properly?

Lastly, it may be evident, but are all your pulleys operating correctly? Is the serpentine belt in motion?

I replaced the front prefuse in my 2002. It is a formidable task. You train as a contortionist to gain leverage despite restricted visibility. The back component is readily accessible for inspection.

That automobile contains two fuses. Trunk next to the battery and passenger footwell. Is there any water located at the back?

We own an exceptional Akrapovic titanium exhaust, priced comparably to a Capristo. The original price is about $12,000; nevertheless, we have one offered at an exceptional discount. These would often exceed the budget of the majority. the pinnacle of excellence. Extremely lightweight. Exceptional construction and audio quality. We own one in inventory for your model year. Kindly send a private message if you are interested.

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Given the absence of records and the significant misalignment of the chain, it is prudent to replace both the chain and sprockets. Reposition it to ensure the two camshafts and the balancer are aligned. They may not if you just insert the new chain while it remains connected to the current one that is 18 degrees misaligned. The metal-backed guide and tensioner rail seem to be in acceptable shape. Identical to mine. What is the rationale for change? The tensioner on this vehicle differs from those on subsequent models. The one I installed is identical to this one: Pelican Parts SLShop seems to be more economical. Subject to delivery expenses.