mixturegro

Regarding the thermostat selections, I discovered a 71-degree thermostat that was previously out of stock. Should I choose the 87-degree or the 71-degree, given that both are from the same manufacturer (Mahle)?

I will reexamine the fan this week and replace the thermostat along with its housing once I determine the appropriate model, as I am unable to locate one that activates at a temperature below 86 degrees. During my last inspection, the fan operated normally, albeit somewhat slowly at 80 to 90 degrees with the air conditioning off, and functioned rapidly with the air conditioning on, with the engine temperature being a few degrees lower when the air conditioning was engaged.

I will contemplate this matter for some time, as my primary concern is the temperature fluctuations, which reach 90-95 degrees on the dashboard and 100 on an OBD2 scanner while in traffic, compared to a stable 80-85 degrees on open roads. The air conditioning is of lesser importance to me, as it complicates city driving, and the fans are unnecessary on the highway.

I will likely get a W210 auxiliary fan unit; however, I would have chosen the W208 unit due to its superior longevity and cooling capacity, which I currently own.

The W210, to my knowledge, was never equipped with auxiliary fans (I am uncertain if they were originally included and subsequently removed, but it appears unlikely). The auxiliary fan assembly I intend to install features two operational fans, with the corresponding codes for the fans and shroud being 2025053355 and 0015001293. I primarily seek guidance on how to detach the fan cables and their controller from the W208 and whether I can connect them to the W210.

I want to ascertain if I may transfer the auxiliary fans from a W208 to a W210. My primary concern is to the necessary modules and wiring required for this installation, considering that both vehicles are dated 1998 and have the older twin motor fans.

Do the paddle shifters click or move when engaged, or are they rigid? The holding screws may be too lengthy, hindering the proper articulation of the shifters.

The rotors and pads are about one week old. I substituted them, believing they would resolve this issue. This weekend, I will examine the front brakes to check the sensor is mounted.

I own the Autel AP200; however, it has ceased functioning, prompting me to acquire a Mercedes Xentry configuration, which is expected to arrive next week. I will examine its contents.

We have come to the realization that we did not bleed the system after the replacement of the rotors and pads. I will get a bleeder kit and attend to it promptly. What is the connection point for the pad sensor? I possess two sensors that I can deploy, contingent upon my knowledge of their optimal placement and installation method.

I do not using the parking brake. What is the reason for it activating when in motion? What should I verify?

We changed two sensors, both located on the right side. There was none on either the front or rear left side. I own two more sensors, but I am unable to locate the appropriate connection point. The light illuminates when the parking brake is engaged. In this scenario, the brake light will glow while driving if the brake is removed, thereby resulting in mistakes.

The 2003 S430 operates and drives well. Several weeks ago, a brake light illuminated on the dashboard. Upon inspection, I discovered the fluid level was low, so I replenished it, and everything seemed to be functioning well. A few days later, I saw the signal on the dashboard again, despite the fluid level being at the full mark. I was aware that it need brakes, so I purchased them; a post on this is available here. Upon replacing the brakes, I discovered that this vehicle is equipped with sensors alone on the passenger side, despite the package including three sensors. Regardless, I fitted the brakes, and now within 10 miles of each drive, the brake light reactivates, accompanied by more faults. I have purchased a Xentry system, but it will not arrive until the end of the month. Do you have any recommendations on what I should seek out?

Do you maintain your air conditioning on recirculation mode continuously, or do you permit the intake of new air after the desired temperature is achieved? Do you reside in a humid region? My 10-year-old ES had unpleasant odors from the air conditioning, so I removed the filter and applied a whole can of Lyson to the evaporator, which resolved the problem.

I had the same sentiment about the thermostat, hence I changed it when the radiator was being serviced. No solution for the straightforward remedy there. I want to attempt to bleed once again. It is hoped that the issue is only air trapped in the system. I lack an air compressor or connection; thus, I am unable to use that vacuum fill tool. Is there a distinct heat source for the higher and lower vents compared to the middle vents? It is peculiar that one becomes very hot while the other remains only warm.

Thank you for the replies. I cannot entirely exclude the possibility of trapped air or a deteriorated radiator; nonetheless, I would appreciate assistance in comprehending the operational mechanics of the cooling system. More specifically, how does the presence of the expansion tank cap influence any aspect? Assuming the head gasket is intact, what other factors may contribute to elevated pressure? Alternatively, the system pressure may be enough, and my cap may not be releasing pressure as intended. A plugged heater core might also be a problem. I observed that the top and lower vents emit hot air, however the middle fascia vents release just warm air. Could that induce excessive pressure inside the system?

I just serviced the cooling system of my 1991 Range Rover Classic by flushing the radiator, replacing many hoses, and installing a new thermostat, fan, and viscous coupling. I successfully bled the system (maintaining steady temperatures and optimal heater function) and let it to idle for around thirty minutes with the expansion tank cover off. After reattaching it and taking it for a test drive, it rapidly overheated, prompting me to turn it off and open the hood. Coolant was ejected from the expansion tank top. It is my conjecture that, given its proper functioning with the cap off, the system is preventing pressure from being released in the expansion tank. Additionally, I conducted a head gasket block test, which yielded a positive result; thus, I infer that the issue lies elsewhere. During my investigation on components, I saw two fundamental cap designs: one using an integrated coolant level sensor (similar to mine) and another that is only a standard cap. Do they both function identically on RRCs? At a certain pressure, do they permit the discharge of that pressure? Should I get a new coolant level sensor cap? All counsel is appreciated!