The BMW X5 has intermittent failure and subsequent functionality.

[EpicTraveler]

I own a BMW X5 that repeatedly fails to start. I have had the vehicle for almost a year and first saw it malfunctioning during the previous winter months.

I needed to purchase a battery pack to facilitate jump-starting it. Ultimately, four days later, I presented it to a technician, and it did not replicate the issues I had at home. The battery was examined and deemed functional, and it was suggested that I would want a key fob. I acquired a key fob, which was not the issue.

During this whole episode, I saw notifications such as "battery discharged" and "tire pressure," however remarkably, a few days later, the vehicle started without any complications, and I did not need to jump-start it. Seven months have elapsed since that time.

Last week, I encountered the same situation. Had to jump-start the vehicle after it remained inoperative for almost three days. The vehicle failed to retain charge for 30 minutes after shutdown.

Additionally, I notice a clicking sound from my left headlight and hear clicking emanating from the dashboard after jump-starting the vehicle. The engine light illuminated, indicating a "Control Module Communication Bus 'G' Off" error.

Two days later, the vehicle is functioning consistently, and the engine light is out; the only question remains: when will it fail again?

Can somebody provide me with some answers?

The car's battery remains the original, as shown by the labels. It is a vehicle from the year 2014. Should I get a new battery? I own two.

Thank you.

[CodeMaster007]

This video effectively demonstrates how to identify a parasitic draw. Best of luck. I own the same problem with my 05. I inadvertently left the overhead light on, which sufficed to deplete its power. Uncertain on the events of the second occurrence.

[CodeMaster007]

 

[GadgetGeek101]

If your battery is really original to a 2014 model, you are ready for your third battery replacement. Affirmative, get a new battery.

The sporadic nature of the problem leads me to assume a grounding issue. I would investigate that matter.

[FinanceWiz]

If you are unable to identify the issue yourself, you need a reputable private repair business. The video above serves as a first reference. I concur that replacing a 10-year-old battery (or batteries) is my first recommendation. I assume you intended to convey that the automobile has two batteries, rather than indicating that you are on the second replacement.

The sporadic nature of the issue indicates a poor connection (ground or power), a short circuit, or a parasitic draw; nevertheless, parasitic draw often does not resolve for extended periods before reemerging. Components often do not resume operation intermittently, followed by more failures. It is advisable to examine your battery after a complete charge using a DC volt-ohm meter, and then reassess it while the engine is operating to confirm alternator output. Seek a voltage range of 14 to 14.5 volts at 2000 RPM with a functioning battery.

Such difficulties may perplex skilled mechanics. You will certainly want the wiring diagrams to do the task alone. Possibly an ammeter as well. If the car has been used in the rust belt, corrosion in the wiring harnesses is probable.

[TechTinkerer]

Attention: A new battery requires registration. It is inadvisable to just replace the battery.