misstki

Satisfied client of my Kline exhaust. Please recommend a valve controller as well. I suppose they produce one, but I opted for Forza. I may be interested in the CF recommendations for the Gen 2.5.

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I do not like front spoilers

I am a law-abiding citizen; nonetheless, I am unaware of anybody who has been stopped or cited for lacking one.

I would like to present a discovery. I primarily chose this option since the OEM front bracket detracts from my modified illuminated grille. While it lacks exceptional sturdiness, I completed a 1200-mile journey without any problems. Throughout the installation, I meticulously monitored the torque applied to the screws. Examine this!

Typically, a clicking solenoid indicates insufficient strength to engage the starting gear with the flywheel. This also involves establishing a connection between the +12V cable from the battery and the starting motor. If the solenoid is malfunctioning, it may either be receiving insufficient electricity or be defective. If insufficient voltage is present, a problem exists inside the ignition system. Transition to the solenoid. Have you conducted a bench test on both the new and old starters to verify their functionality? The issue may lie in the flywheel, preventing the starter gear from engaging, hence inhibiting the high voltage in the starter from making contact. You may either hotwire the starter or remove it for bench testing.

Thank you, AdventureSeeker. I'm not so angry anymore. I think that any splices or original connections in the drain tube(s) would be farther down if they haven't come loose right at the window. It would be great to know where they were. I don't have the original instructions for the 2010 frame, but I'm sure it's online somewhere. It looks like that long bend rod would be useful, unless you accidentally break a link.

Thanks for responding to my angry rant. But I disagree with the idea that any car, not just RRs, can have leaks. In theory, it's possible, but I've had MANY cars with and without sunroofs, and NONE of them had a problem with water getting into the footwells. There's something about the way British designers think that makes leaking frames easy to make. And I DID look under the sunroof to see WHERE the drains were. I found one on the top of the driver-side front corner that was totally blocked. I'll try that drain with water later, when I can get someone to help me. But if it's jammed at the top, is it safe to think that the window well is overflowing and making its way down the A-pillar? How hard is it to take off the panels inside and find where that drain goes?

The footwells on the driver's side of my RR Classic were always wet and now need to be replaced. I was SO hoping that all of those problems would go away with my 2010 L322, but here we are again with wet footwells on the driver's side after a heavy rain. What message did Land Rover miss that all the other car companies got about making cars that don't let water in? I think that the L322's sunroof drains to the back and down the rear walls, but I could be wrong. Where could the water in the footwell be coming from? Do the footwells have galvanizing, or can they rust through like my Classic? It doesn't look like the carpet is easy to pull back to look into.... It's not fun for me to worry about whether my footwells are flooded every time it rains. It takes away the fun of having such a nice car.

Likely not a defective execution; they are a common failure associated with substandard German plastic. I have fabricated repair components that accommodate the screws and glide over the fractured stubs. I do a dry fit, followed by applying epoxy and pressing it down to the correct height.

I would not pursue an AudiCare plan because of the vehicle's age. Select a Fidelity package and reach out to Trenton at Highline-Autos.com; he facilitated my acquisition of a Gold package for my 2012 vehicle and was excellent to collaborate with.

Similarities to what I encountered. The sealant will only be effective for a limited duration. Based on my observation, it seems that the head/block is not particularly rigid compared to well-designed light-alloy Vee motors. That is the reason why the head gaskets fail readily when the defective cooling system design causes excessive stress initially.

I have not personally tried the only one. It is possible to apply Kseal 'ultimate' even while there is still Glycol present in the system. It seems that the system functions more effectively when it is first flushed with a 'de-greaser' solution, rather than a strong alkali. Subsequently, it should be flushed with plain water, and this process should be repeated several times. The website link provided is for the product "K-Seal Ultimate" on the official K-Seal website. I used a pair of bottles on each occasion. Semiannually. The majority of other products, such as Barr's Leaks, that were formerly considered very beneficial for repairing leaky brass radiators, have little or no effect on aluminium heads and blocks. None of these solutions provide a permanent solution for the AJ 5.0l V8 engine. One of the main reasons for its limited lifespan is the poor design of its cooling system, which leads to repeated thermal failures similar to the first catastrophe that caused the head gasket to fail initially. If you attempt to use the sealant just for a brief period: - Initially, it is important to adhere to the directions provided by the manufacturers. Indeed. Subsequently: Run the engine with a header tank cap that is not pressurised, loosened, or drilled. Ensure that you have a minimum of 2 US gallons of water with a 30% glycol mixture for the summer, and for the winter season. Inspect the level and replenish as necessary each time you start the engine. Limit the maximum revolutions per minute (RPM) to prevent the water pump from malfunctioning at high RPM. Avoid using excessive force to achieve rapid acceleration or towing a trailer. Establish a Senior discount account with a reliable flat-bed recovery transporter. You may expect to use it for local errands for many years, and you will only need to flatbed it around once every eighteen months. We accomplished.... 🙂 If you have a sufficient level of like for it? Subsequently, you may allocate funds and arrange the motor for an extended duration. The Maserati brand is using a Ferrari V8 engine. The Aston-Martin V12 is equipped with a naturally aspirated engine. Is the Hatz Diesel engine air-cooled? The Lister-Petter Diesel engine is cooled using a liquid coolant. A large rubber band... Is Bugger interested in boiling water? Proceed with enthusiasm! https://www.carthrottle.com/news/pensioner-has-built-awesome-steam-powered-land-rover

It extended the lifespan of the infamous early-years Cadillac "Northstar" cluster-freakshow shiny-wood V8 by a few years. === B) This one receives the most attention and reviews: https://steelseal.com/product/steel-seal-head-gasket-repair/

One of these may temporarily seal it: The efficacy of "Snake Oil" may be temporarily effective. A) The procedure involves removing the t-stat, flushing the system, purging it, and then refilling it with water alone. No glycol should be used in the system. Glycol becomes compatible only when it has solidified. https://thermalweld.com/

I agree. The AJ Vee engines has a remarkable capacity. They may repurpose their malfunctioning head gaskets into reed valves. The process involves drawing coolant into the cylinders, where it is heated and then expelled out the exhaust with a little smell. Importantly, this process ensures that no combustion gases enter either the crankcase or the cooling system. Although the endoscope can clearly identify it, a typical color-change test-liquid exhaust-gas detector will indicate the absence of gas entering the cooling system. The vehicle may remain stationary for more than an hour, continuously emitting false information. Accelerate the engine, causing a substantial increase in temperature. This causes the coolant system to release pressure, resulting in coolant being forcefully expelled, as if attempting to fill containers for sale. I have been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Head gasket repair may be performed in situ. Many individuals on this site have accomplished the task. If the block has to be decked, new rods, pistons, and rings are required, along with potential replacement of rod and/or main bearings. Additionally, the crank should be polished and an improved oil pump is highly suggested due to the failure mode of the original pump. Detaching the sump/pan from the block while it is in its original position will not suffice. Mill must be removed. And it is necessary to do so. Once outside, it is not unpleasant to work on. There are films showcasing complete restoration projects.

At little more than one-third of the price I spent for mine (nearly $14,000)? I would have purchased it immediately, without hesitation, as quickly as possible, in the span of a minute in New York! Due to my proficiency in using a computer, I am now able to efficiently search for inexpensive components, whereas my limited physical abilities prevent me from effectively using a wrench. I estimate that I can successfully carry out a comprehensive reconstruction of an AJ V8 engine for around $4,000 worth of components. Considering that I want to retire at the age of 90, I only need a car for a maximum of 10 years and a mileage of 30,000 miles or less. I am particularly interested in a Jaguar that has double the fuel efficiency on the highway, specifically achieving 34 miles per gallon at speeds of 65-70 miles per hour. Reconstruct? Given my age, it is more convenient to remove the engine from the vehicle and work on it while it is placed on an engine stand or bench, rather than contorting myself around the body of the vehicle or straining my back below the frame.

Equivalent to dwellings. Not a single one of them does. JLR vehicles are inferior to many others. Indeed, that is precisely what made it really affordable for YOU to have! The user's text consists of a single emoticon, specifically a smiling face. In my particular situation, I chose to acquire the 2005 XJ8-L after a period of almost 20 years of retirement and just before reaching the age of 70. In my late 70s, I undertook the task of tackling the L320, which I found to be not very burdensome. Significant renovations were part of the proposal. However, I do not have a strong desire for a single 'daily driver'. I have never been interested in television or seeing others engage in sports or sexual activities. Therefore, tinkering with vintage motorcars serves as a diversion, preventing me from frequenting bars and brothels. With the inclusion of current features such as ABS, airbags, and others, vehicles have become safer and more practical, which is contrary to my original desires. Create an exact duplicate of a late 1930's Alvis "Speed 20" by using detailed technical drawings and starting with the raw metal materials. The automobile is an improvement over my 1959 TR3, but it does not provide much more comfort while driving in rainy conditions. Additionally, one may encounter a hazardous situation if a distracted driver under the influence of THC gummies collides with them while texting. The XJ8-L and RRS-HSE-Luxury models provide more comfort, safety, and practicality. However, some individuals argue that opting for pubs and brothels would have been a more cost-effective choice. Particularly suitable for a classic 1945 frame! Belongs to me. Exclude the motor vehicles.

As long as the substance is gasoline and not glycol, then sure. 'Hung' in the open position, else there will be a gradual return to the closed position. Prioritise doing an endoscopic examination before performing either a compression test or a leakdown test, since both tests may obscure signs of a malfunctioning injector. Next, do a compression test and a leak-down test. You are "due", if not significantly overdue, for head gasket failure and leaking. An AJ Vee motor does not have a lengthy lifespan. The design is influenced by cost-conscious individuals with inadequate discernment. It is advisable to invest in a complete overhaul of the engine every 100,000 miles rather than waiting until it reaches 200,000 or 300,000 miles. This is particularly true for high-quality engines made by reputable manufacturers such as MOPAR, GMC, or the most reliable Asian engines created by skilled engineers and backed by knowledgeable financial analysts. Note: Knowledgeable financial analysts advise Engineers to strive for engine and powertrain reputations that are impervious to failure. Observe the Dodge-Cummins and the Toyota Land Crusher. Enhances value preservation, facilitates the sustained sale of high-priced items over extended periods!

Excellent beginning. The starting price for the vehicle was over $14,000, considering its excellent condition in terms of body, glass, paint, interior, electricals, and suspension. I anticipate investing a another $15,000 before relinquishing ownership of it. It is advisable to use injectors of the same brand for all 8, even if they are not of the same age. They should improve their calibration and cooperation. I installed 4 out of a total of 8 new products made by a third-party manufacturer, namely from the 1357 bank. Did not find it entertaining. I purchased a set of 8 original equipment manufacturer (OEM) Bosch parts and replaced the 1357 set with the 2468 set that was still on the original 112,000-mile veteran Bosch parts. The issue has been successfully resolved.

A probe with a narrow design is sufficient for tilting, as long as it has a 90-degree side. The model I have is a Teslong NT8500B.

That is a nice outcome, but if no further actions were taken, it is likely that the issue is in the rings and bearings, rather than simply the injectors. The outcome is contingent upon the quantity and severity of heat stress resulting from faults in the cooling system.

I am unsure whether your endoscope has a 'side view' feature as my Teslong device does. However, it is crucial that you refrain from using the motor any more until you have determined if there is a stuck valve, which may now be damaged, or if it is just a case of misfiring. The term "hydro" in the context of 'hydrostatic lock damage' might result from the presence of any non-compressible fluid, not only water. Petrol, petroleum and cleaning chemicals.... I anticipate that you will allocate funds for the replacement of the chain and sprocket, most likely the replacement of head gaskets, and maybe the restoration of the valvetrain. Is there a possibility for further things? "Habit and laziness?" ... After reaching that point, it would be prudent to also replace the pistons, rings, rod, and main bearings.

Indeed, it is wearing sunglasses. The sunglasses I own in my vehicle are likely polarized or coated in some manner, however they do not possess an excessively dark tint. After removing them, the aid function appeared and worked well. However, after they were reinstalled, that functionality ceased to function. What an utter nuisance. For six months out of the year, I wear sunglasses. However, I now need to locate new sunglasses that do not obstruct my car's ability to detect my eyes. It's rather remarkable.