dandareeggnog

For your information, I attempted this with the VIN of my 2019 540xi, and it said that the fuse diagram is unavailable for my car.

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I concur with your assessment on the flywheel. I tested my old starter outside by extending the cables connected to it. It functioned outside, but not within! I am currently not inclined to alter the flywheel. Are there other solutions to this issue?

Attempted your suggestion on the direct application of 12V. It does not alter the symptoms. Only clicks persist. The old starter functioned on the bench, although it failed to operate in the vehicle.

Thank you for your answer,PeonySilver I have replaced the most dubious cables. The battery is functioning well, and I also used jumper wires to rule out any issues.

My 1986 Volvo 240 failed to start yesterday. The starter just clicked. I began the engine, drove it home, and replaced the starter with a new one. It just resonates! I find this incomprehensible. The solenoid activates upon receiving electricity from the ignition key. What other requirements does it have? Perplexed!

If it is declining as much as you indicate, identifying the cause should be straightforward, whether it is Trans or Ps. Utilize a lift, ramp, or curb to get a comprehensive view.

I ensured the tensioners were operating correctly. I ought to have been more prudent than to anticipate the finest outcome. This is my first experience working on a Range Rover, and I must assert that it is not among the more straightforward cars I have encountered. I became well acquainted with the whole procedure of disassembling everything to access the timing components, reinstalling them, and repeating the process due to my unfamiliarity with this car. One lives and, ideally, acquires knowledge. Thank you for your contribution.

The endoscope I used was a Harbor Freight model; however, the camera end was somewhat oversized for insertion.

Thank you for providing such a comprehensive and insightful answer. At the outset of the conversation, I believed I could enumerate every element that contributed to the final outcome; nevertheless, individuals often get inundated with excessive inconsequential information. I am willing to provide the background for anybody interested. The automobile was acquired via an internet auction by a friend's girlfriend. She said that the winning offer was $1500; however, the agreement stipulates that the seller is responsible for transporting the car to the buyer. The cost amounted to $1500, resulting in a total expenditure of $3000, and she had yet to hear it operate. Upon arrival, the driver had the title but withheld it until she signed a document affirming that she would forgo any legal action against the auction business in the event of issues with the car. I was astonished that she had progressed this far, but she believed she would forfeit the $3000 she had invested, along with a further $1500 that the driver said would be charged for the return. This summarizes the chaotic situation succinctly. Upon removing the valve covers, plugs, and injectors, I tried to inspect the cylinders using a camera via the spark plug aperture; however, the orifice was too little to facilitate access. I examined the valves via the intake passageways and saw no apparent issues. I suggested that we observe the lifters via the cameras to identify any anomalies. We did not, and she was informed of the probability that the damage was more extensive than only the guides and tensioners. Given the expenses for the components, equipment, and the car, together with the few hundred dollars she had already provided, she was reluctant to remove the heads, as this would significantly elevate the costs. I believe it would not have incurred any further costs compared to the current expenses, other from the labor charges she will need to cover. I believe it is time to convey the unfortunate news to her.

2010 Rolls-Royce with a 5.0-liter supercharged engine Acquired this from an internet auction site around one month ago. It operated, although it functioned erratically and had timing chain noise. Acquired items Timing chain assembly Timing chain tensioners Specialized lockout instruments Harmonic balancer extraction tool Slide hammer injector extraction tool Water pump, thermostat, and housing unit. Injector Seals Factory Service Manual All timing covers were removed, revealing that the right side (driver) chain guide was fractured, causing the chain to dangle freely. I mechanically rotated the crankshaft and saw that the driver's side exhaust camshaft was stationary due to excessive slack in the chain. I detached the chains, guides, and tensioners, then meticulously turned the crankshaft until I could completely secure the lock in the crankshaft position sensor aperture. Subsequently, the flywheel lock and both the left and right camshaft locks were added. Installed new timing components and verified that all markings were accurate. Eliminated all locks and turned the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The lock tools were misaligned, necessitating a complete redo until proper alignment was achieved. Upon pressing the start button, I hear the starter spinning, but it fails to engage the engine. I detached the starter and tested it outside; it seemed to function properly. I reinstalled it, still the issue persists. Is there an engine lockout mechanism that inhibits the starter from activating the engine if certain requirements are unmet? Question #2: What is the rationale for having two distinct lockouts, one for the crank and another for the flywheel? One cannot rotate without the other rotating. Is this accurate? Thank you for any advice.