Darste

The minutiae are significant, and the efforts we exert... Excellent performance!

Recently purchased this automobile. With 187,000 miles, it is reasonable to presume that all issues related to the eco wiring have been resolved; nonetheless, a verification will be conducted. The turn signal issue has been resolved; everything is functioning properly again. Continuously perplexed by the fuel gauge and brake pedal. There is undoubtedly no electrical connection between the two; nonetheless, when using the brake pedal, the gauge immediately drops to zero. I can tolerate it, but I am interested if others have had similar issue. What is the most accessible location to investigate ECO electrical issues?

Recently expressed discontent

It may be the tail light. I had a bulb failure, which I have already replaced. How would it impact the fuel gauge reading 0 while the brake pedal is engaged?

Uncertain which wire is designated as ECO. Could you provide the connection point?

I own a 1995 W124 diesel vehicle. An unusual issue has just arisen. The left indicator light ceases to function when using the brake pedal. Reengagement occurs immediately upon releasing the pedal. The right indicator bulb continues to blink, but the clicking sound ceases. The fuel gauge drops to zero when the brake pedal is engaged but returns to display the accurate capacity once the pedal is released. Has anybody had this issue, and where is the defect (assuming it is inside the wiring)? More importantly, were you able to rectify it? No other lights were impacted.

I am uncertain about their compatibility when marketed as "all models"; it is likely that they will need trimming similar to the universal mats available at Walmart.

I have yet to locate the source of the sound, which seems to emanate from the rear left speaker. It produces a repetitive ticking noise while traversing uneven roads, based on my current knowledge.

I am uncertain about the source of the rattling sounds emanating from the back. I first believed it was the seatbelt causing the issue when experiencing the bumps, but I have yet to identify a remedy.

Purchasing a salvaged car, regardless of whether it is a Tesla or not, is a risky endeavor that should have been evident from the much reduced purchase price. Occasionally, you achieve victory, but at other times, you experience defeat.

Tesla has the capability to remotely initiate an upgrade via a service request. Have they attempted this and experienced failure as well? If such is the case, you may be left with no alternative except to schedule a service visit. If the issue persists, please resubmit your service request, including a comprehensive explanation of your situation, and explicitly ask for an update to be pushed.

Does your automobile have wifi connectivity?